The heart of my box joint jig is based on a design found in the March, 1993 (Volume 2 Number 8) issue of ShopNotes. Like most box joint jigs, it works on the principle that once a notch is cut, it is placed on an indexing pin which sets the distance for the next cut. This particular jig is easier to adjust than most.
The metal tabs replace the spacer block found on most box joint jigs.
These knobs control the space between the tabs and the distance the tabs are from the blade. If you'd like to order the plans for yourself, you can get them for about five bucks by clicking here.
These knobs lock the tabs in place so the jig doesn't get out of adjustment during use.
The original design called for the jig to be attached to the miter gauge. I upgraded the design by attaching the jig to a box.
This is the bottom of the jig. It looks kind of ugly because I made it from scrap plywood. It has two runners and slides perfectly without racking.
The top of the box is enclosed with clear plastic. This keeps my fingers away from the blade, and dust out of the air.
The splitter on the table saw acts as a stop and keeps the jig from moving too far.
I thought this was the ultimate box joint jig, but woodworker Matthias Wandel made a computer controlled box joint jig. Click here to see it.
